Racing Services

August 2021 - Daniel Errett of 174 racing on the Richmond Motorsports Triumph Daytona 675 at S.O.A.R. racing Grand Bend Motorplex!  

 

Let Richmond Motorsports track experienced personnel prepare & set-up your motorcycle for the Track! 

Preparation services range from the basics for track day riders who may want to take their street bike on the track for a day of fun, to race only competiton bikes!

  • Wire Locking Fasteners 
  • Valve Clearance Inspection & Adjustments
  • Installing Performance and Race Parts
  • Suspension Set Up and Rebuilding
  • Dyno Testing & Tuning
  • Parts & Accessories
  • Crash Protection
  • Race Suit's and associated gear to help keep you safe!

Below is some helpful information on what our service team can provide to prepare your motorcycle for a Track day! 

TECH INSPECTION ITEMS (See below for details on each item)

  • OIL FILTERS
  • OIL DRAIN BOLT
  • OIL FILLER CAP
  • MIRRORS
  • BRAKES / BRAKE PADS
  • TAIL LIGHTS
  • HEADLIGHTS
  • CHAIN or BELT
  • TIRES
  • THROTTLE
  • COOLANT
  • CAMERAS & other electronics

OIL FILTERS

Oil on the track is the biggest thing we want to avoid and is both dangerous and can shut down the track for a long period!

We strongly recommend (not a requirement) all "SPIN ON" type oil filters be secured with a HOSE CLAMP around it.  A "spin on" filter is one that is outside of the motor (see photo below).  Hose clamps are readily available at any auto parts or home improvement store for a couple of bucks.  Simply place the clamp over the filter and either rotate the hose clamp so it cannot loosen (by wedging it against the motor)... or put a piece of wire on it and pull it in the TIGHTENING DIRECTION. 

We ask this because some people don't properly tighten their oil filters after changing.  And the high RPM riding at the track can cause them to loosen and put oil all around the track (not to mention your back tire!).   Once someone "oils" the track, it can close the track for many hours. 

Putting a hose clamp on will cost virtually nothing and takes only a minute to do, so please do it at your next oil change.

Remember, once you have a clamp on the filter, to change your filter you simply loosen the clamp slightly, slide it off the old filter and then replace on the new filter - and retighten the clamp.  There is no need to cut the safety wire.

Here is what a properly secured oil filter looks like

  • It is critical when changing your oil to ensure the OLD O-Ring comes off with the old filter.  It sometimes will stick to the motor!  Be sure to physically check the old filter has the O-Ring in the top groove before installing the new filter. 
  • Please put the clamp on at your next oil change.
  • If your oil filter is enclosed in the motor, then we urge you to wire the bolt holding it in, but it is not mandatory.  But PLEASE make sure it is tightened properly.
  • WARNING:  There have been reported instances of K&N filters coming off due to thread failure or leaking at the hex nut on the end used to remove the filter.  Some race organizations have banned them!

OIL DRAIN BOLT
At this time, for Track day's only, most tracks are not requiring the oil drain bolt to be wired, but again... make sure it is properly tightened (torqued) to spec!  However, we strongly recommended you drill and wire your drain plug - regardless of whether you are riding on the track or not.  It's easy and cheap, and gives peace of mind!

OIL FILLER CAP
Please make sure your oil filler cap is tight. Not necessary for a Trackday but drilling a small hole in the cap's tightening ridge and secure it with safety wire is added security.

MIRRORS
Your mirrors must be removed.

BRAKES / BRAKE PADS
Your life truly depends on your front brakes!  Please be certain to check your brake pad thickness. Most brake pads have a groove cut into them.  When this groove disappears, you are dangerously low on pad material. Look for uneven wear thickness.  Replacement of worn out front brake pads with new ones requires pressing the piston into the caliper. Without a proper caliper piston cleaning, dirt on the exposed caliper piston gets forced into the seal causing the caliper pistons to stick and the brake pads to drag excessively on the rotor! .....The front wheel must spin freely with minimal drag as to not cause the brakes to overheat,  if not, your brake calipers need to be disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt!... ...If your brake lever comes up firmer with less travel on the 2nd squeeze there's a problem!....Remember your life truly depends on your front brakes so take the time to ensure the pads and calipers are in perfect condition!!!.....These are professional services that we offer at Richmond Motorsports!

TAIL LIGHTS
No light can show through the tail light when the brakes are applied.  Be sure to turn on the bike and apply the brakes... light will show through most of the painters tapes... you need to put duct tape over that. 

HEAD LIGHTS
Headlight's must be taped over!  We recommend disabling the headlight to keep heat down. Many bikes have a simple connector that can be unplugged, or you can remove the fuse.

WHEELS / TIRES
Wheel weights must have a piece of duct tape over them as a safety precaution.  Tires must be in EXCELLENT condition with plenty of tread remaining. If you are at or below the "wear indicators", please change them BEFORE track day.  We keep all popular brands on hand for sport bikes, as in Michelin, Dunlop, Bridgestone, Metzeler and able to order other brands as well. Please PRE-ORDER to ensure the tires are waiting for you. Tire pressures are important and we recommend you consult with us for a recommendation.

CHAIN 
Please make sure your chain has sufficient slack.  With your weight on the bike, you should be able to move the chain up and down a min/max 1-2 inches without rider and bike on the ground. A slightly loose chain is preferred to a tight chain, which can not only snap, but will also restrict your suspension movement and possibly ruin your transmissions countershaft bearings. The chain must be in EXCELLENT condition with no signs of rust or degradation, no kinked links visible while rotating the wheel backwards on a stand.

THROTTLE
Must SNAP BACK to the off position when released.  If trailering your bike, we recommend that you DO NOT tie it down by the handlegrips, as this is one of the main causes of sticking throttles. The ideal method is to use the upper triple clamp (the thing your forks slide through).

COOLANT
Engine antifreeze must be removed and replaced with water. Take a moment to check all the hose clamps and other connectors involved in your cooling system to ensure they are tight.

FASTENERS
Finally, make sure that all  fasteners (body hardware, brake caliper bolts, etc.) are properly tightened. Physically go around the bike, and put a wrench or screwdriver on EVERY nut, bolt and screw you can find.  Pay special attention to your Oil Drain Plug, Oil Filter, Levers, and Exhaust brackets.

All items such as this must pass tech inspection.  You will receive a special sticker at tech! 

LOWERED BIKES

A bike that has been lowered cannot lean nearly as far as a stock motorcycle before hard parts make contact with the pavement. This creates a significant hazard for those who expect to ride at an intermediate or advanced pace. While we do allow lowered bikes, we strongly discourage bringing them to our track days, especially if you are a fast rider. It is possible to have a great time riding a lowered bike, as long as you ride at a more relaxed pace and are aware of the limits that a lowered bike presents.

NOISE RESTRICTIONS:   Many track's now have a sound limit.  While most bikes are under the limit, some of the louder aftermarket exhausts will exceed it.  If you have an aftermarket muffler, you will just have to take your chances the first time - but if you feel your bike is really loud, it will likely fail.  

LICENSE PLATES

If the sharp edges of your license plate are exposed then you must remove it or tape the edges with duct tape.  Plastic frames or mounting plates that extend or cover the edges are okay.


CAMERAS, GPS, Lap timers

Helmet or Body mounted cameras are prohibited (by the tracks - not us).   CAMERAS, GPS, Lap timers, etc. must have at least 2 hard tethers to the bike.  The hard tethers to the bike can be a bolt, safety wire, or zip tie. The tether must go to the camera case itself, as the weak link is the connector that allows the camera to swivel. If using two safety wire or zip tie tethers - place them in opposing directions. The idea is that the camera case itself will basically not move if the connector breaks. Having only one tether allows the camera to swing around - possibly interfering with the operation of the motorcycle.  SUCTION CUP, or STICKY TAPE does NOT QUALIFY as a tether

 

Daniel Errett of "174 Racing" took two 3rd place finishes in S.O.A.R. Racing Series 2020

Maryse Brouillette finished 3rd overall in the 2020 Super Series Lightweight Production Class